and so on and so on, but those remade pieces never make it into the museums. If you had a fairly slim, narrow shape, not as many people could re-wear your clothing, and it gained archival staying power.

I have known for most of my life that the historical record is a complicated thing, but I got to tell you that sometimes it is just plain weird as balls.

It is in my mind that a Dhaka muslin gown cut Empire style, in a plus size, with appropriate drape in the hem, would cost thousands of pounds before anyone stuck a needle in it.

And it would look awesome and not give anyone muffin boob.

I worry my work focuses too much on the social signifiers of who has the skill to mend clothing/that person's projected gender/who is wearing what and how many times it's been made over.

You focus on other signifiers than clothing! Like fields of expertise! And code-switching! It's all cool!